Australia

17/10/2022

Travels across Australia and back again

Anne Morton Australia, Queensland, South Australia, Western Australia Australian Age of Dinosaurs, Lark Quarry, Sapphires at Rubyvale, Steep Point, thunder eggs at Mt Hay, travels across Australia, wildflowers

5 highlights of a wonderful trip.

We chose the Tropic of Capricorn from Rockhampton in Queensland to Coral Bay in Western Australia as the route to explore on our travels across Australia. And we came back across the widest point, from Steep Point in the west to Byron Bay in the east.

Along the way we visited museums, saw fossils, went fossicking, camped in beautiful national parks, met some interesting people, enjoyed the wildflower displays and travelled on all road surfaces from bitumen, through gravel to tracks.

In short we enjoyed a great adventure.

People have asked me what were the highlights of our adventure. Of course, there were many highlights. But rather than writing a book about the trip, here are just five of the most memorable.

1. Museums and fossils.

We visited several heritage museums on our travels across Australia as many towns have historical attractions.

At Longreach it’s the Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame and the Qantas Founders Museum,
Barcaldine has the Australian Workers Heritage Centre,
Boulia’s Heritage Complex includes fossils as well as other interesting exhibits
Alice Springs preserves the Old Telegraph Station.

But the highlights for me were Lark Quarry and the Australian Age of Dinosaurs, both near Winton. Lark Quarry showcases a dinosaur stampede thought to be 95 million years old. At that time Lark Quarry was part of a river plain with surrounding lowland forest. Many small two-legged dinosaurs of two different species – one a chicken-sized carnivore and the other a larger plant-eater – came to drink from the water. A huge meat-eating dinosaur stalked them and then charged the prey.

Both the stampeding herd of small dinosaur footprints and the predator’s much larger footprints were preserved in the mud of the river bank for present day visitors to marvel at.

The Australian Age of Dinosaurs features fossilised bones of dinosaurs. Nearly complete skeletons have been prised out of the rocks in which they were discovered. One can only marvel at the patience and persistence of those who do this work. As well we marvelled at the size of neck vertebrae of the giant herbivore Diamantinasaurus matildae.

working on dinosaur bones at Winton, Queensland — Vertebra bones of the giant herbivore *Diamantinasaurus matildae*

2. Prospecting

We have never tried prospecting before, but we were eager to discover thunder eggs at Mt Hay and sapphires at Rubyvale.

Thunder eggs are formed by volcanic action when gas bubbles were present in the molten lava. These bubbles filled with siliceous liquids, which crystallize when they cooled. After cutting, the thunder eggs reveal many different colours and patterns.

At Mt Hay, visitors can fossick through piles of material excavated from the nearby mine site. And this is what we did, spending an enjoyable morning discovering a few eggs. When cut, the results were delightfully surprising.

Next for us was sapphire hunting at Rubyvale. Similarly to Mt Hay, each participant receives a bucket of gravel to sort through with experts offering helpful advice. We spent another happy morning searching for gemstones.

Fossicking for sapphires at Rubyvale, Queensland — Fossicking for sapphires at Rubyvale

3. National Parks

Steep Point was one of my standout highlights. Well known as the most westerly point of the Australian mainland, this area is now part of Edel Land National Park (proposed).

Steep Point, the most westerly point of mainland Australia — Steep Point – the most westerly point on mainland Australia

As well as Steep Point, this park features massive sand dunes, secluded beaches and windswept limestone cliffs. You need a four-wheel drive to explore rocky and sandy tracks, the Zuytdorp Cliffs, blowholes and other features.

We camped at False Entrance on the sands of a secluded beach, which we had all to ourselves – just magic.

We visited several national parks on our travels across Australia. Bladensburg, near Winton, is a small park with some interesting scenic features, as well as a pretty camping area beside Surprise Creek. Karajini National Park, in Western Australia, features a stunning landscape of gorges, crystal-clear waters of rivers and pools and waterfalls.

There was also Ningaloo Reef Marine Park for reef experiences and snorkelling and Cape Range National Park nearby.

4. Wildflowers

One of the best features of travel across Australia at this time of year is the wonderful wildflowers to be seen.

No matter where you are in Western Australia, this state will always take the prize for wildflower displays. But South Australia provides fierce competition, especially in the arid or sandy zones.

In the northern goldfields area of WA, the purples and yellows of daisies dominated along roadsides and into the landscape, with the occasional pea plant to give a splash of colour.

Along the Strzelecki Track, it was the deep purple of the pea plants covering the ground and wattles and sennas gave a golden highlight to the view.

We were too early in the year for a full display in WA. September is a better time for the wildflower display, but there were still plenty to marvel at and photograph. Several species of ptilotus were prominent with Sturt’s Desert Pea a highlight.

wildflowers of northern Western Australia — Wildflowers of northern Western Australia

Poached egg daisies in nothern South Australia — Poached egg daisies in sandy soil, northern South Australia

5. People we met along the way

We met Jean and Gary at Jupiter Well. They invited us to camp next to them, and since they had the best campsite there, we didn’t hesitate. This was very good as we discovered that they were going the same way as we were.

Our plan was to travel down the Gary Highway to find the two Capricorn markers on this track. Then to continue to Windy Corner and turn onto the Talawana Track to head to Georgia Bore and eventually Newman.

This is a very isolated area, with few travellers going this way for some time and causing the Gary Highway to be very overgrown in some places. But it was also a very important part of our travels across Australia. So it was great to share the adventure with others. We had travelled the Gary Junction Road and Gary Highway before – you can see our adventures in our video Desert Highways.

Later at Sandstone, we decided to eat out at the local hotel. Here we met Mike and Narelle, who were prospecting in the goldfields area. It was a most convivial meal, and they also told us about Sandstone’s heritage trail linking some interesting man-made structures with striking natural features.

From them we also learnt about the historical village of Gwalia, near Leonora, and the mining museum here. This includes the mine manager’s house, which sits on the edge of a goldmine that is on a scale similar to Kalgoorlie’s super pit. Herbert Hoover designed the house for the mine manager. He was also a President of the USA.

And finally at Curtain Springs, we again decided to dine at the restaurant there. Here another couple invited us to join them at one of the tables. This was a very good move, as Tim and Marguerite had arrived by air, flying in their light aircraft, a Moonie.

Tim and Marguerite were on their way to Darwin where they were going to take part in the Outback Australia Airrace from Darwin to Coffs Harbour with stops at several regional communities between. Each team in the race raised money for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

And lucky us! They were happy to take us on a joy flight over Mt Connor before they flew off for their next destination. As many will know, Mt Connor is located on a line with Uluru and Kata Tjuta, but is not as accessible. So it was a wonderful experience to see it from the air.

Mt Connor, Central Australia, from the air — Mt Connor in Central Australia from the air

These are only a few of the many highlights from our travels across Australia and back again. I will probably write about this trip again soon.

23/02/2022

Blinman Mine Underground Experience

Anne Morton Australia, South Australia 4wd adventure, 4x4 travel Australia, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

The Blinman Underground Experience is an innovative tour through the historic Blinman copper mine. Aided by the addition of an informative sound and light display, the tour takes the visitor back through time showing the daily lives of the miners and their families.

The tour explores the tunnels, the main shaft and the stopes. These were terrible working conditions for miners, where dust, near darkness, holes in tunnel floors and explosions in the rock walls were challenges. This was indeed one of the world’s most horrible jobs.

Blinman Mine open cut section — The mine open cut, viewed from above

History of the Blinman Mine

The mine first opened in 1862, after a shepherd, named Robert Blinman, discovered an outcrop of copper ore in 1859. The mine operated off and on until 1907, closing at various times due to financial difficulties, low copper prices and eventually the exhaustion of payable ore.

Smelting works were erected in 1863 to reduce the high cost of cartage to Port Augusta. The workings reached 91 metres deep in 1870, but water was found in the shaft. A steam engine was erected to pump the water and haul ore from the lower levels. Despite the improvements the mine closed in 1874.

The mine reopened when the railway line reached Parachilna in 1882, but this venture failed. There were several openings and closures during the following 25 years.

Blinman Mine was the largest producer and the longest operating copper mine in the Flinders Ranges. Over the period of its activity, the mine yielded 10,000 tonnes of copper from 200,000 tonnes of ore. The town’s population fluctuated during the periods of the mine’s operation, peaking at about 1500 people at one time.

The mine was profitable for some of the companies that worked it but was mostly an economic failure. One of the greatest problems was the economical transportation of the copper to the nearest port at Port Augusta.

Mine Self-Guided Trail

As well as the underground experience, there is a walking trail, and a brochure and interpretive signs explain the relics and ruins remaining on the hillside minesite. The trail is approximately 1 kilometre long.

The adit leads into the mine and is where the underground experience begins. The ore body outcropped over a length of about 60 metres on the hillside. As it has been completely excavated, large caverns have been left behind. You can get an idea of the size of the orebody from the diggings, through the fences built for safety purposes .

Remains of a buddle pit used to concentrate finely crushed copper metals — Buddle pit used to concentrate finely crushed copper

Other remains include a dam wall, mine shafts, windinghouse, crusherhouse and powerhouse sites, coarse tailings dump, slimes dump and slag heap. Miners used curious circular structures, called buddle pits, to concentrate finely crushed copper minerals. These devices were developed in Cornwall and brought to South Australia in the 1860s.

Blinman Township

The township of Blinman is also named after the shepherd who discovered the copper. Located scenically in the central Flinders Ranges, Blinman is the highest surveyed-town in South Australia. Today there is a permanent population of 22, plus the residents of the surrounding pastoral properties.

As well as the Underground Mine Experience, Blinman services include a General Store, Post Office Agency and the North Blinman Hotel which also offers accommodation and dining. Accommodation is also available in cottages and on surrounding pastoral properties.

The General Store also offers great coffee and tasty Aussie food and we tried Cornish pasties available from there. This was a real treat with the usual pastie contents in three-quarters of the pastry and apple tucked in one end. The traditional Cornish pastie makes for a very delicious meal.

John and I visited Blinman in 2009 when filming our video The Magic of the Flinders Ranges. Then the underground tour wasn’t available. So we were keen to head back there when we heard that the mine tour had opened.

The Heritage Blinman Mine Underground Experience was excellent, took longer than the advertised hour duration and was well worth the deviation we took to visit it. See more at www.heritageblinmanmine.com.au.

29/12/2021

Caves to Caves Adventure in New South Wales

Anne Morton New South Wales, Short trips 4wd adventure, exploring, New South Wales, weekend trips

Our Caves to Caves Adventure

During our 4-wheel drive caves to caves adventure, we explored the beautiful Blue Mountains of New South Wales. During the weekend, we visited Jenolan Caves, saw the Kanangra Walls and completed the adventure at Wombeyan Caves.

The Jenolan Caves is the longest, continually operating tourist attraction in New South Wales. These caves are also claimed to be the oldest discovered caves in the world. More than 300 caves pock the subterranean karst geology. Guides offer tours through some of these caves.

At the other end of this trek is Wombeyan Caves, an extensive series of limestone caves situated in a 417-hectare reserve. At Wombeyan you can experience self-guided explorations through the caves.

Between these two sets of caves there is the stunning and spectacular Kanangra Walls, a sandstone-dominated landform with different geology to the rest of the Blue Mountains.

But that’s not all, as this trek features mountain tracks, wild rivers and appealing campsites, although as it was winter when we toured, we were happy to stay at a motel in Oberon.

Jenolan Caves stalactite formation — Jenolan Caves

The Caves to Caves Adventure begins

Our small group left the Great Western Highway at Little Hartley just over the range from Sydney. The turn off is signposted Coxs River Road. This begins as bitumen, but soon turns to gravel as it heads down into the valley.

Soon we were travelling on a section of what is known as Six Foot Track. In 1885 the New South Wales government provided the funds to construct a six-foot wide bridle trail, wide enough to accommodate coach travel. This track established a route to Jenolan Caves from Katoomba to realise the tourist potential of the area.

In 1985 the Six Foot Track was opened for dedicated walkers to experience the 3-day, 45-kilometre trek from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves. Four-wheel drivers can drive on some of this route, while keeping a careful lookout for walkers.

Coxs River Reserve, on the Six Foot Track, is a popular camp ground for walkers, or for short walks along the river.

From Coxs River we continued along a ridge line for some time. Soon we were dropping down into valleys or climbing once more to heights with signs of recent snowfalls. Then we were on the bitumen and heading for Jenolan Caves.

The amazing entrance to the caves is through the Grand Arch. From here the first building seen is the impressive grand hotel, Caves House. There is much to see here, including Carlotta Arch, which is a large cave remnant that overlooks Blue Lake.

The caves are a network of ancient limestone tunnels, subterranean rivers and caverns. They are richly draped with formations of all kinds, that result from a variety of mineral deposits. We chose a tour of the Chifley Cave. This was the first cave in the world lit by electric light when it was opened in 1880.

Day 2 of our Blue Mountains Adventure

We started Day 2 with a visit to Kanangra Walls. The Kanangra Walls display the sheer grandeur of the wild and rugged Kanangra-Boyd National Park. It’s best to see the Walls from lookouts, which offer stunning vistas over Kanangra Gorge and Plateau.

Dingo Dell in Blue Mountains, NSW — Dingo Dell camping area, a pleasant place for a stop

From there we ventured down into the valley for a pleasant break for morning coffee at Dingo Dell. This is an area for camping, but it is more suitable for walkers than car-based campers.

After Dingo Dell we climbed up to the Oberon-Colong Stock Route and the Mt Werong picnic area for some lunch. While we were there some wallabies came to visit us. This one created a lot of interest, especially when we saw it was carrying a joey.

Once lunch was completed, we took the Range Fire Trail from the picnic area to reach the Wombeyan Caves, an area of extensive beautiful limestone caves.

Wallaby with Joey at Mt Werong picnic area, NSW

A highlight here is the self-guided experience of the Figtree Cave. This cave forms the underground route for Wombeyan Creek and has three different sections. The first part is inactive and features impressive stone formations. The second part follows a narrow section along the creek, while the third leads to a huge cavern.

Wombeyan Caves stalactite formation — Figtree Cave formation on a self-guided tour

And so ended our tour, which is suitable for a weekend adventure. There are several places to camp along the way, as well as more places to explore. For more information on this tour, refer to 4WD Treks Close to Sydney (page 68 for Six Foot Track and page 161 for Caves to Caves).

13/03/2021

Following Explorers Burke and Wills: a Journey Across Australia

Anne Morton Australia, Queensland 4wd adventure, 4wd travel, New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Victoria

Explorers Burke and Wills were well-known for their part in the exploration history of Australia. Their efforts to cross the country from south to north enabled the extension of the current knowledge of vast parts of the inland.

A sample of the journey following explorers Burke and Wills from our video
On the Track of Burke and Wills

Many travellers follow the routes of Australia’s intrepid explorers. The Burke and Wills route across the Australian continent provides an interesting, alternative journey. This is a short guide to their trek.

A short history of explorers Burke and Wills expedition

The Exploration Expedition

In 1860, Irishman, Robert O’Hara Burke, was appointed leader of an expedition to explore the area between Melbourne and the Gulf of Carpentaria. Both impulsive and impatient, Burke was a poor choice. He had no experience as a bushman or ability to plan an expedition.

Fortunately, the serious and reserved 26 year-old, William Wills, was chosen as surveyor and navigator. It was due to Wills that the expedition was nearly a success.

The Expedition Journey

The expedition progressed to the Gulf of Carpentaria in three stages. Nineteen men left Melbourne in August 1860 and worked their way to Menindee in New South Wales.

Rainfall was heavy in August 1860 Victoria. With an overabundance of supplies to transport, progress was slow through thick clay and soggy ground. Later the route was across sand dune country. Burke ditched some of the superfluous equipment, but he also left behind useful supplies such as medicines, fishing gear and lime juice used to prevent scurvy.

At Swan Hill, a tiny settlement on the Murray River, Burke discharged four men and took on four others. One of these was Charley Gray, a former sailor and ostler for Cobb and Co, who went to the Gulf with Burke, Wills and John King.

Eventually the expedition reached Menindee on the Darling River. Here Burke sacked his second in command, George Landells, due to their frequent disagreements over the treatment of the camels. William Wills now became deputy. Burke was impatient to be the first to cross the continent from south to north. He divided the party and left Menindee with seven men on 19^th October 1860.

The remaining men were to follow with fresh horses and supplies to Cooper Creek. But by the time they left Menindee in late January 1861, conditions were poor and three men died in the attempt.

Burke and Wills explore to the Gulf

Meanwhile Burke and Wills had reached the Cooper in December 1860. Here they built a depot near the 300-year-old coolabah tree that became known as the Dig Tree.

Burke soon set off for the Gulf with Wills, Gray and King. This was through the full summer heat of central Australia and the Top End wet season. Four men remained at Cooper Creek to wait for their return.

Burke and Wills’ journey to the Gulf of Carpentaria passed close to present day Birdsville, Boulia and Cloncurry.

Their final campsite was Camp 119 (CXIX). Leaving Gray and King at this campsite, Burke and Wills made a final effort to reach the sea. Unfortunately, they never reached the sea, but the water they tasted was salty. They returned to Camp 119 to begin the arduous trek back to the Dig Tree.

Gray died on the journey back, while Burke, Wills and King finally reached the Cooper in April. They discovered that the men left there had departed that day, only a few hours before.

After four months the men at the tree couldn’t wait any longer. Their supplies were running short and some were ill. On 21^st April 1861 they started their journey back to Menindee. Little did they know that Burke, Wills and King staggered into camp that very afternoon.

Without the energy to continue the three remained at Cooper Creek until Burke and Wills died in June. But King survived. Alfred Howitt’s search party found King in the care of the local aborigines. Howitt buried both Burke and Wills where they were found. Later their bodies were removed and buried in the Melbourne cemetery.

Following the Explorers Route today

Memorials to Explorers Burke and Wills in Melbourne

A statue of the explorers Burke and Wills stands on the corner of Swanston and Collins Streets.

In the Melbourne General Cemetery, a massive granite obelisk marks the grave of Burke and Wills. John King, survivor of the expedition, lies in another part of the cemetery.

In Royal Park an impressive memorial marks the spot where the expedition party began their journey north. There is a commemorative plaque here too, recording 150 years since Burke and Wills departed on their epic journey.

Memorial headstone for explorers Burke and Wills in the Melbourne Cemetery — Memorial headstone for Burke and Wills

Memorial for departure point for explorers Burke and Wills in Royal Park, Melbourne — Departure point memorial for Burke and Wills in Royal Park

Their first campsite is only four miles away near Queens Park on Mt Alexander Road. A small memorial in the median strip marks this spot.

Melbourne to Swan Hill

From Melbourne the route passes Romsey, Lancefield and the Campaspe River near Bendigo where they camped one night.

For today’s travellers, the Terrick-Terrick National Park offers camping and exploring. The lookout on top of a rocky hill offers views across the wide plains.

Swan Hill is a bustling, modern township located beside the Murray River. The Pioneer Settlement here showcases the lifestyle along the Murray from its 1850s’ beginnings. Visit cottages and shops of the time or enjoy rides and a paddle-steamer cruise.

Swan Hill to Menindee

From Swan Hill cross the Murray River into New South Wales. The route passes Balranald and heads for the Darling River.

Mungo National Park is located in this region. A World Heritage site, Mungo is rich in Aboriginal culture with a history dating back 42,000 years. On a guided tour visit the Walls of China, where erosion has sculpted sand and clay into fragile but imposing formations. A self-drive tour through the stunning landscape includes the history of more modern times when a sheep station was located here.

Pooncarie is a pleasant stopping spot on the Darling River, while Bindara Station offers camping and accommodation.

Kinchega, formerly a sheep station, became a national park in 1967. The park protects the Menindee lake system and highlights its rich pastoral and Aboriginal history. Visit the historic Kinchega Woolshed and Old Kinchega Homestead or take a discovery tour with the Barkindtji Aboriginal Elders. Camping and accommodation are available in the park.

Menindee is another pleasant small township on the banks of the Darling River. The original Maiden’s Hotel played a significant part in the Burke and Wills story.

Dost Mahomet’s grave is located a short distance out of town. Mahomet, an Indian-born cameleer, travelled to Cooper Creek with Burke and Wills, but remained at the Dig Tree during Burke’s dash to the coast. He returned to Menindee and worked in the bakery until his death in 1881.

The scientific explorers camped for three months beside Pamamaroo Creek, near Menindee. Signs indicate the spot where they waited to continue their journey.

The site of the camping spot of the Burke and Wills expedition at Pamamaroo Creek, near Menindee — The site of the campsite on Pamamaroo Creek near Menindee

Menindee to the ‘Dig Tree’

Mutawintji National Park is well worth a visit, featuring many walking trails through the rocky terrain. Visit the Mutawintji Gorge, or take a guided Aboriginal heritage tour and see one of the best collections of Aboriginal art featuring both hand stencils and rock peckings.

The route deviates now from that of Burke and Wills as there is no access through the private properties in this area.

From the Silver City Highway, today’s travellers can visit the historical township of Milparinka or head further west to Mt Poole. Charles Sturt spent six months here during his exploration to the centre of Australia.

Tibooburra is the last township in New South Wales. Well-known for its two hotels, Tibooburra was a gold mining town for a short time. But mining became unviable due to the shortage of water.

From Tibooburra, travel north into Queensland, to the corner border area with South Australia.

Noccundra is the only establishment in this area. Take some time here to enjoy the old hotel, built in 1882 before heading to the Dig Tree.

The Dig Tree is a 300-year old coolabah, that stands beside Cooper Creek on Nappa Merrie station.

There are three carvings on the tree although these are grown over now. One of the carvings marked the date of the explorers’ arrival at Cooper Creek and the date of departure – Dec 6-60 over Apr 21-61. Another carving marks the campsite number – B over LXV (65).

The third was the word ‘Dig’. This referred to the spot where the departing group had buried supplies for Burke and Wills in case they returned to the Cooper.

Today’s travellers will find pleasant camping near the Dig Tree as well as at the small township of Innamincka over the border in South Australia. There is good camping along Cooper Creek, but you need a desert parks pass for this.

Innamincka consists mainly of a hotel and a general store selling food and fuel. Other points of interest at Innamincka include the regional reserve information centre based in the historic Elizabeth Symon Nursing Home. The Burke and Wills burial sites are located beside Cooper Creek on either side of Innamincka.

Birdsville and beyond

A view of a convoy on an outback track — A view of a convoy on the Arrabury Road

Explorers Burke and Wills travelled along Cooper Creek, before turning north west, roughly in the same area as today’s Walkers Crossing Track across to the Birdsville Track.

Birdsville, perched on the edge of the Simpson Desert, has all facilities for travellers with general store, camp ground, bakery and, best of all, historic pub. Big Red, the largest sand dune of the Simpson Desert is a short drive from town.

From Birdsville, head north along the Eyre Development Road through Bedourie, the first small town. Then comes Boulia, home of the Min Min light and a fascinating exhibition at the Min Min Encounter. The Min Min light is often sighted but cannot be explained. There is also a fossil museum here.

Convoy crossing flooded Diamantina Road, following explorers Burke and Wills — Convoy crossing a flooding creek when following explorers Burke and Wills

There are several references to Burke and Wills through this region. Boulia is on the Burke River, Wills Creek is also present. North of Cloncurry, the Burke and Wills Roadhouse is located at the intersection of the Burke Development Road with the Wills Development Road.

The Burke and Wills Roadhouse in far north Queensland — Burke and Wills Roadhouse

The final campsite, Camp 119 is located off the Savannah Way. This is as far as you can go following the Burke and Wills route to the Gulf of Carpentaria. Just as the explorers had many difficulties reaching the sea, so today’s travellers have no access here.

Better to go via Normanton, home of the Purple Pub and giant crocodile, and Karumba for your view of the sea.

FAQ

What is the best time of year to go?

Anytime between April and October would be suitable for this trip. Remember that Victoria is cold over the winter months, but the Top End will be warm. Don’t be like Burke and visit the Top End during the wet season or central Australia from December to February.

What type of vehicle is best?

4WD is recommended for all outback touring. But this trip is easy and there should be no need for low-range.

What are the road conditions for this trip?

The roads across Victoria are mostly bitumen, with some unsealed. Avoid any Dry weather roads only, when they are wet.
In New South Wales main centre roads are sealed as are parts of the Silver City Highway. Otherwise most of the roads are unsealed and can be impassable after a lot of rain.
From South Australia and into Queensland road surfaces are mixed right to Normanton where roads are sealed to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Travellers should take due care on all road surfaces – sealed or unsealed. Many roads may be closed after heavy rain, so take note of all warning road signs.

The Burke and Wills route provides the opportunity to enjoy many different sights and adventures. To see how our adventure turned out see our video On the Track of Burke and Wills.

Dave Phoenix has written a book of his own journey walking the same route as Burke and Wills. Following Burke and Wills across Australia is available from Westprint Maps.

13/11/2020

Travelling the Binns Track: a Step-by-Step Guide

Anne Morton Australia, Northern Territory 4wd adventure, 4wd travel

The Binns Track is a collection of sealed and gravel roads and four-wheel drive tracks linking Mt Dare, on the edge of the Simpson Desert in South Australia, to Timber Creek in the Northern Territory’s top end. Altogether the Binns Track covers nearly 2,200 kilometres. It passes through a diversity of landscapes and environmental communities from the Simpson Desert sand dunes to the Savannah grasslands. In all, the Track offers adventure, history and stunning scenery for the four-wheel drive traveller.

Introduction

The Binns Track is named after Bill Binns, who worked for the Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife Service. Bill started as a ranger and rose to the level of Executive Director over his 32 years of service. His long held enthusiasm for this amazing four-wheel drive journey finally became a reality in 2008.

The starting point is at Mt Dare on the edge of the Simpson Desert. The final destination is Timber Creek in the tropical zone of the Northern Territory. South to north on the Binns Track is the most popular way to go, but odd travellers do journey from north to south. It’s best to travel in a small convoy for safety.

The Binns Track is meticulously signposted throughout its route with every turn or change of direction clearly marked. Although it is hard to get lost on this trek, some sections are very isolated. So be self-sufficient and carry plenty of food and fuel supplies and be careful on the tracks.

road signs along the Binns Track — The Binns Track is clearly marked

The Binns Track: a step-by-step guide

Mt Dare to Alice Springs

Mt Dare is actually in South Australia and part of Witjira National Park. The former homestead of a cattle station provides welcome services to all travellers especially those crossing the Simpson Desert. So top up your fuel tanks here before heading on the next part of your trip.

From Mt Dare the track soon crosses into Northern Territory and over the normally dry Finke River. The direct route to Old Andado is subject to flooding and track damage caused by heavy rain events. Therefore, it may be necessary to use the longer route through New Crown to reach Old Andado homestead.

View of Old Andado homestead on the Binns Track — Old Andado homestead after heavy rain

Molly Clark, a stalwart pastoralist, was owner of Old Andado homestead, a significant historical site. The site has been preserved the way that Molly left it when she was forced to move to Alice Springs. Molly also founded the National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame in Alice Springs in the 1990s.

There is a camping area here with toilets and showers available and an honesty box for camp fees.

From Old Andado the Binns Track heads for Alice Springs. This road is good gravel over well-formed tracks. The scenery changes dramatically, with first the parallel sand dunes of the Simpson Desert and later through hilly ranges.

Alice Springs is a busy regional centre and one of the largest townships of the Northern Territory. There is plenty to interest the traveller here with museums, art galleries and desert wildlife park. The township also offers the opportunity of stocking up with fuel and supplies for the more isolated adventure to come.

Alice Springs to Gemtree

The Binns Track follows the Ross Highway east from Alice Springs on bitumen. After 35 kilometres the track turns onto the Numery Road to reach the Ross River. Now there is more 4-wheel driving as the track follows the mostly dry river bed and crosses it several times.

Vehicles crossing Ross River on the Binns Track — Vehicles crossing Ross River

N’Dhala Gorge is located along this track. Visit the Gorge for its spectacular scenery and Aboriginal rock carvings.

It’s not far now along the river track to Ross River Resort. There is a range of accommodation options, including a campground and fuel supplies.

Trephina Gorge is located a short detour from the Binns Track from Ross River. This is another scenic spot located in the Eastern Macdonnell Ranges. Its features include two impressive gorges, walking tracks, stunning views and a camping area.

Trephina Gorge and river view — Trephina Gorge

Old building at Arltunga historic site, on the Binns Track — An old building at Arltunga Historic site

Now the Binns Track heads further east over a well-formed gravel road for the Arltunga Historic Reserve. This area preserves the site of an old gold mining area and township site. A 4-wheel drive track to the east leads to Ruby Gap and Glen Annie Gorge where rubies were discovered. This track is often closed due to track damage.

The Binns Track heads north west from Arltunga, along an easy 4-wheel drive track. After approximately 100 kilometres, this track reaches the Plenty Highway near Gemtree Caravan Park. There is a range of accommodation available and an outlet for fuel and supplies if you need to top up.

Gemtree offers guided tagalong gem-fossicking tours to nearby zircon and garnet fields. There is a gem-cutter on site who will check and polish any likely gems found on this tour. The Gem Room and Gallery displays gems, jewellery and Aboriginal art.

Gemtree to the Davenport Ranges

The Binns Track now passes through cattle station properties in this section of the trip. Carry plenty of water and spare fuel as the distance between fuel stops is quite long through this area.

The first part of this section follows the Plenty Highway eastwards. At first bitumen, this road soon becomes gravel and can be impassable when wet. The Binns Track leaves the highway after approximately 90 kilometres and turns northwards once more. Grass and shrublands are the main vegetation here. There are rivers to negotiate which may have some water in them.

The Boxhole Meteorite Crater on Dneiper Station makes an interesting detour. It is best to first get permission to enter the site from the homestead located nearby.

The Bundey River has a wide sandy bed but with very little water. Some of the track can be rough and narrow in this section, so be careful through here.

There is a short stint on the dry weather only Sandover Highway. Then the Binns Track once again turns in a northerly direction. This road is good gravel for approximately 120 kilometres until the track turns onto a rougher, rocky 4-wheel drive track.

Davenport Ranges National Park

A pretty waterhole and water crossing mark the beginning of the Iywelepenty/ Davenport Ranges National Park. This national park protects an important environmental zone of waterholes and rocky, scenic terrain.

Travellers will see Hatches Creek mining ruins where Wolframite was discovered in 1914. Wolfram was used in the hardening of steel. So there was strong demand for it during both world wars and the Korean war.

There are two ways of reaching Old Police Station Waterhole. The alternate Frew River Track consists of very rocky terrain across the range while offering scenic views along the way. But it is rugged and towing trailers is not recommended. The main track is longer, but easier.

A campsite at Old Police Station Waterhole along the Binns Track, Northern Territory — A campsite beside Old Police Station Waterhole

Old Police Station Waterhole is one of two very pretty waterholes designated as camping areas in the park. There is good camping beside the permanent and large waterhole here. Travellers can have a refreshing break from travelling. The other camping area on Whistleduck Creek is on the north side of the national park.

Davenport Ranges to Dunmarra

Back at the Stuart Highway, you can take a short deviation south to find the Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve. This Reserve features a remarkable collection of large rounded rocks and is a sacred site for the local Aboriginal people. There is a camping ground here too.

Devils Marbles, Northern Territory — Devils Marbles at sunset

The way north now is along the Stuart Highway, which closely follows the route of explorer, John McDouall Stuart. He was the explorer who successfully crossed Australia from Adelaide to Darwin in 1861.

Tenant Creek became a township after gold was discovered here in 1932. A telegraph repeater station was built nearby in 1870. This is part of the Overland Telegraph Line, which links Australia with the world. The repeater station has been restored and is well worth a visit.

Travellers can refresh all their supplies in Tennant Creek.

The Binns Track continues along the main Stuart Highway, approximately 300 kilometres. It passes through the townships of Renner Springs and Elliot on its way north to Ddunmarra.

Dunmarra is a roadhouse offering all of a traveller’s needs including camping and caravan facilities.

Dunmarra to Judbarra/Gregory National Park

From Dunmarra the Binns Track now follows the mostly gravel Buchanan Highway to Top Springs, approximately 180 kilometres from the Stuart Highway.

Top Springs is a roadhouse located at the junction of the Buchanan Highway with the Buntine Highway. Facilities at Top Springs include fuel, some food and camping area.

Victoria River Downs Station is another 102 kilometres further west along the Buchanan Highway. From there the Binns Track continues into Judbarra/Gregory National Park. Now the way offers some challenging river crossings and rough, rocky track. These tracks are slow going so it’s best not to be in a hurry through this section.

Low clearance vehicles and those towing trailers should continue on the Buchanan Highway. The road is still gravel through scenic Jasper Gorge, where a pretty creek passes through a range of hills.

Judbarra/Gregory National Park is named after explorer Augustus Gregory. Covering an area of about 13,000 square kilometres, the park features spectacular gorge and range scenery. There are several camping options, with the main one near the site of the old Bullita Homestead. With several drives and many features to explore, spend some time in the park to see as much as possible.

Timber Creek

Timber Creek on the Victoria Highway is a small township that marks the end of the Binns Track. There are a historic police station, river and escarpment lookouts, memorials and historic boab trees to explore near Timber Creek. A range of services and accommodation is available here too.

And so ends the Binns Track journey. For more information, see the excellent Binns Track: 4WD Adventure Guide available from Westprint Heritage Maps. This map guide book has detailed maps along every section of the track. It also includes heritage and touring information and interesting facts about many of the highlights of the journey.

And you can see most of this adventure in our video The Binns Track: Savannah to Simpson. Yes, we were one of the odd groups that travelled this trip from north to south.

If you complete your adventure at Mt Dare, then you might choose to go home across the Simpson Desert. You might find our Simpson Desert: 50 Years On video to be of help here. Or our Old Ghan Heritage Trail features the Oodnadatta Track.

From Timber Creek turn west to visit the Kimberley and our video Colours of the Kimberley might help there. Turn eastwards and you are travelling on the Savannah Way and we have you covered there too.

17/06/2020

Our First Simpson Desert crossing in 1992

Anne Morton South Australia 4wd travel, Simpson Desert

Memories from old home movies

What do you do when you are stuck at home in lockdown? We started with decluttering the garage, the ceiling and under the house. Visit our other site at Lifestyle Video Productions to see the fun we had there!

And we found some old VHS tapes from back last century. One of them was of our first Simpson Desert crossing in 1992.

Some video from our very first crossing of the Simpson Desert

There’s been a lot of water under the bridge since then as you can see – trimmer bodies, more hair on the heads, and children all grown up!

Our first Simpson Desert adventure

The Simpson Desert was a great adventure, and not just because it was our first attempt. That year, 1992, was an unusual season with rain closing the access through the delta area on the western side.

The delta is a large section of what was once floodplain or lake. It is now vegetated with low growing grasses and salt tolerant plants. When it rains, this area soaks up the moisture and holds it like a sponge. At these times, the track through it becomes impassable.

As this route is the only way in from the west side, special permission was granted to travel through aboriginal land via the Finke River floodplain. This track is further north and clear of the swampy route through the delta.

So we began at Dalhousie Springs before heading to Mt Dare. We rejoined the desert track just before Purnie Bore where we were now into the sand dune country. I don’t believe this special permission has been granted again so travellers across the Simpson Desert in ’92 can consider themselves to be quite lucky.

We chose the French Line, up and over the sand dunes and across the salt lakes for our trip. More highlights came with the many wildflowers carpeting the swales, with the yellow and white of poached egg daisies standing out.

yellow daisy desert wildflower — Another desert wildflower

a pom-pom flowering desert wildflower — A pom-pom type wildflower

Our trip continued without a hitch – there was fun at Poeppel Corner with 5 young lads; Eyre Creek had only an inch of water at the crossing and even Big Red was conquered with a minimum of fuss.

young boys at Poeppel Corner, Simpson Desert — Boys having fun at Poeppel Corner

Then we headed triumphantly to Birdsville with some great memories to remember our first ever Simpson Desert crossing. And also some video footage to play with. Cameras, recording mediums, computers and editing software have all improved since then, but you can see in the video above that many of John’s ideas were already starting to form about that time.

We have crossed the Simpson Desert many times since that first time. We have travelled the French Line and the WAA Line. We were lucky another year to be able to cross Warburton Creek to exit the desert.

On another trip, Eyre Creek was in flood at the usual crossing. We used the detour, travelling 30 kilometres north to cross at a safe spot. And we travelled 30 kilometres south to return to the QAA Line.

We have enjoyed several adventures across the Simpson Desert but we will never forget our first crossing.

And if you would like to see just how spongy the delta area can be after rain check out our Simpson Desert: 50 Years On DVD. Once again, heavy rain nearly made this trip impossible.

05/08/2019

Googs Track in South Australia

Anne Morton Australia, South Australia 4wd track, 4x4 adventure 0

Googs Track is an adventurous 4WD track of sand dunes and claypans that traverses the Great Victoria Desert between Ceduna and the Trans Australian Railway line. From the Eyre Highway, a formed gravel road leads through pastoral country to the original homestead of the Denton family who built Googs Track.

A car approaches on Googs Track — A vehicle on Googs Track

The story of Googs Track is an interesting one. John ‘Goog’ Denton, his wife Jenny and their three children lived about 30 kilometres north of Ceduna on a property named Lone Oak. For years, Goog and Jenny had thought about putting in a road north to the to the railway Trans Access Road and Tarcoola, approximately 160 kilometres away. Eventually in June 1973 they began the huge task of building the road.

Initially track clearing was carried out using a Fordson tractor with a front end loader blade, but as the going got tougher and the sand hills bigger and steeper, a bulldozer was employed.

Googs Track is usually tackled from the south. As well as being a great adventure, there are many highlights to see.

At first the track is easily negotiated over flat firm ground across small sand dunes. The Great Victoria Desert is well vegetated throughout, and eucalypts and wattles are common here.

Goog memorial

Memorial on Googs Track, South Australia — Looking at the memorials on Googs Track

After approximately 50 kilometres, the track reaches an intersection. There are two memorials here. One is for Jenny and Goog’s son Martin, known as Dinger, and the other is for Goog himself. Both lost their lives in accidents in the vicinity of the track, but at different times and after the track had been completed.

It has become a tradition to leave a coin, either on the memorials or stuck into the trunks of old casuarinas still growing here. This is a symbol of thanks and respect to Goog and Dinger for the tireless work they put in to construct the road that so many 4-wheel drive travellers enjoy today.

Googs Lake is a short deviation and only 4 kilometres away. This is an ideal camping spot, for exploring the Yumbarra Conservation Park and nearby rockhole, or for just relaxing around the serene lake.

From the intersection Googs Track heads off in a northerly direction. There are plenty of larger dunes on this section of track which travellers usually enjoy. Some of the larger dunes are quite tricky. But that’s the fun of travelling in sand dune country.

Soon, the track passes through the Yellabinna Wilderness Protection Area. This area of approximately 500,000 hectares protects one of the largest and most intact natural areas in South Australia. It’s particularly important for the conservation of natural vegetation communities, as well as culturally significant sites such as Mt Finke.

Mt Finke

Mt Finke was named in 1858 by explorer John McDouall Stuart, after a friend William Finke who was associated with mining and pastoral activities.

At approximately 370 metres high, Mt Finke is a major landmark that can be spotted from the highest dunes in the desert landscape. Up closer, stunning views of the mountain appear from the track.

A signposted side track leads to the base of Mt Finke where there is a picnic and camping spot. Some energetic people like to climb the peak and are rewarded with amazing views from the craggy summit.

Another side track leads back to Googs Track, crossing a salt lake and clay pan on the way.

Now it is approximately 30 kilometres to the east-west Trans Australian Railway and the railway access road.

East to the Stuart Highway

Cross the railway line with care, you never know when a train might be coming. Once the access road is reached, turn right for Tarcoola, Kingoonya and Glendambo. Turning left and travelling on the access road is forbidden in this section.

The old gold mining town of Tarcoola is kept alive by mining activities in the area. But its famous red pub has little or no chance of re-opening.

In Kingoonya, there is still evidence of a much busier past when this was on the main route to Western Australia. These days only a few businesses survive mainly supported by travellers from Googs Track.

Established in the early 1900s as a railway support town, Kingoonya played a significant role in the construction of the Trans Australian Railway. It is reputed to have had the widest main street in Australia with cricket matches played on it.

Travelling further east from Kingoonya will bring the traveller onto the Stuart Highway at the roadhouse at Glendambo. Here is an opportunity to stock up on fuel and other supplies before heading north or south for your next adventure.

What you need to know

Googs Lake, a salt lake on Googs Track — Googs Lake

You will need a 4-wheel drive with low range capability. While generally Googs Track is not too difficult, use high range for the sandy sections and low range when the dunes become tricky.

Carry sufficient fuel for at least 500 kilometres and more for any 4-wheel driving. Top up in Ceduna. There is no fuel at Tarcoola and may not be any at Kingoonya.

Ceduna has a range of accommodation options including caravan parks. Glendambo and Kingoonya also offer hotel and camping options. On Googs Track there are ideal spots at Googs Lake and Mt Finke. There are plenty of opportunities for bush camping along the track.

Go with friends in other vehicles to share the experience.

Best time to go – March-April through to September-October. We have travelled Googs Track 3 times but all trips were in April and May when the weather was mostly mild and sunny. The summer months would be too hot.

You can see more of Googs Track in our video Long Road to the Alice.

27/06/2019

How bad weather can improve your travel experience

Anne Morton Northern Territory, South Australia 4x4 adventures, explore South Australia 0

John and I recently joined a tour, Maralinga and Beyond, which was organised by Vic Widman and Great Divide Tours. Although the itinerary included many places we had already visited and even filmed, we decided to join the tour as there were some highlights we hadn’t been to. Then we found how bad weather can improve your travel experience.

Some of the new experiences

On day 1 our morning stop was at Iron Knob – part mining town, mostly ghost town. The Tourist Centre and Museum, found on the edge of town furthest from the Eyre Highway, offers expansive views towards the mountains lining Spencer Gulf, as well as many interesting exhibits of the mining and town history.

sample of the organ pipe foundations in the Gawler Ranges — Organ pipe formations

The group stopped at Mt Ive Station for a self-drive tour to visit the volcanic plugs of Peter’s Pillars and Lake Gairdner, serene under the setting sun. Then we travelled into the Gawler Ranges National Park for a day exploring the features there, including old huts, dry waterfalls and organ pipe rock formations, historical display that included a pastoral homestead, equipment and way of life, and stunning scenery as seen from a lookout over the valley below.

The bad weather changes the itinerary

Googs Track was next. As one of the elements that we had travelled before, but never filmed, it was disappointing that the heavy overcast obscured the views of Mt Finke. But the light rain did settle the sand on the dunes making travel easier.

Which was good as the plan had been to camp at Googs Lake but the weather report was bad. Torrential rain and extreme winds were predicted across much of coastal and central Australia. Vic decided to press on to Ceduna for the cover offered by the Tourist Park and the travellers were all very grateful.

In all we were based in Ceduna for 3 nights as rain and wind continued to affect the itinerary.

strong winds across the dunes — Hold on! Strong winds across the dunes

Davenport Creek is an easy drive from Ceduna. Vic’s plan had been to camp there and explore the sand dunes and beach. But the rain, wind and very high tide made access difficult and camping there would have been quite uncomfortable.

But the weather wasn’t all bad. The sun was shining when we did access the dunes at Davenport Creek, but the strong wind was blowing the sand across the dune tops and driving the waves onshore. As we took in the beautiful scene before us, we felt like we needed to have something to hold onto.

Wild sea at the blowholes at Cape Bauer, near Streaky Bay, SA — Wild sea at the blowholes at Cape Bauer

Next day as rain and wind alternated with sun and wind, the group headed for Streaky Bay and nearby Cape Bauer. Again the wind drove the surging sea onto the rocks, where the waves were forced through vertical fractures for spectacular displays at the Whistling Rocks and Blowholes.

It was time to move on for more beaches with a stop at Port Sinclair and surfing mecca, Cactus Beach, before more giant sand dunes and beach driving at Fowlers Bay. At last the wind had dropped and the sand and sea were calm.

Fowlers Bay is proud of its history with information boards displayed throughout the small village.

The bad weather brings surprises

After experiencing the stunning wave action at Whistling Rocks, we had discovered quickly how bad weather can improve your travel experience. But there were even more surprises in store.

There must have been good rains across the central deserts before the heap of rain related to the storm that hit central Australia.

green vegetation around Totem 1, site of an atomic bomb blast — Green vegetation around Totem 1

As we travelled through the Great Victoria Desert we were surprised at how green the vegetation was, including the spinifex (Triodia). New growth was bright green and spread across the landscape. The grasses and new growth along the track were all green including at Totems I and II of the British Atomic Weapons Tests of October 1953.

green spinifex along the Anne Beadell Highway — Green spinifex along the Anne Beadell Highway

But the biggest surprise was at Palm Valley and along the Finke River Track. Visitors there at the time were warned to leave before the storm that swept through and the Finke Gorge National Park closed. By the time we came, the creeks and rivers were full but fortunately for us the floods were subsiding and both were open once more.

John and I had explored the Finke River Track many years before. The only water encountered was the permanent waterhole at Boggy Hole. This time, both Palm Creek and Finke River were carrying water. There were many photo opportunities and scenic delights at each river crossing – all of which provided no problems except one.

As one of the first groups to attempt the Finke River Track after the storm, Vic was uncertain whether we might be able to get through. And then we found one very deep hole. Vic waded in to test the depth, but quickly gave it away when the water lapped at the bottom of his shorts.

checking the water level in the river crossing — Vic checks the water level

Gloom descended on the group until Ian, Vic’s assistant, found an alternative track – overgrown, over rocks and rough, and a safe detour. We all scrambled through and continued our marvellous adventure.

peaceful Finke River with reflections — Finke River reflections

As it turned out, Vic’s natural caution had prevented our vehicles from drowning at the deep hole in the river. Further down the track we came across a stranded vehicle abandoned after going through that hole.

We completed the Finke River Track, having enjoyed the adventure and experienced the beauty of the usually dry Finke River with water in it.

Our trip finished at Alice Springs, a great adventure with wonderful diversity and enhanced by bad weather that improved our travel experience.

The whole story of this trip is found in our newly published video Long Road to the Alice: Port Augusta to Alice Springs. Check it out and order your copy now.

07/02/2019

West of the Stuart Highway, South Australia

Anne Morton Australia, South Australia 4wd adventure, 4wd travel, exploring, South Australia 0

When planning a trip into South Australia most off roaders think of the Flinders Ranges, Simpson Desert or the great tracks – the Oodnadatta, the Birdsville and the Strzelecki. But there is plenty of adventure to be found to the west of the Stuart Highway as well.

Beginning in Port Augusta our convoy group took the long road to Alice Springs, west of the Stuart Highway and we found diversity in terrain and landscape, from desert sand to coastal sand, salt lakes and flooded rivers, historical events and a different look at the wide brown land.

Iron Knob

First stop was at Iron Knob, approximately 70 kms along the Eyre Highway to the west of Port Augusta. Weaving our way through the township, we finally found the Tourist Centre and Museum, which is as far away from the highway as is possible.

Iron Knob, perched on the slopes of BHP’s iron ore mine of Iron Monarch, is situated prominently with fine views across the flat plain. In its heyday, which extended throughout the 20^th century, the population of Iron Knob was approximately 800. But the mine closed in the late 1990s and soon it became a ghost town.

The mine has been reopened by Arrium now, and while the town is not exactly buzzing, the residents feel they have a brighter future, buoyed by the mining industry, and tourism.

Inside the information centre, an interesting display features history of Iron Knob, equipment and techniques, and the iron ore and steel industry here. A video is shown in the theatrette about the history of Iron Knob and its relationship with the steel works at Whyalla. Iron Knob is well worth a visit. The caravan park has basic and clean facilities including a camp kitchen and gas BBQ, payment of a gold coin donation.

From Iron Knob the turnoff to Mt Ive Station is just across the highway. This road, a comfortable drive on well-maintained gravel winds through gently undulating terrain.

Edward John Eyre came this way during his 1839 exploration westwards from Port Lincoln. He reached approximately 50 kilometres west of where Ceduna is today, before being forced to turn back due to a lack of water. On the return trip he discovered and named the Gawler Ranges after the then Governor of South Australia.

Along this road two of Eyre’s campsites are marked with stone plaques. Both are on the right hand side of the road when heading in a westerly direction. The first marks the spot of camp 7 where Eyre camped on September 24, 1839 and the other marks campsite 6 used on September 23, 1839. There is room off the road to pull over for a closer look at both campsite plaques.

Mt Ive Station

Mt Ive Station turnoff is marked by an unexpected object. One can only wonder why a mini submarine was built here – but it certainly is eye catching – and you are unlikely to miss the turnoff.

Mt Ive has plenty of accommodation options with stone rooms, shearers quarters and camping and caravan sites. There is also a huge communal kitchen and dining and recreation room, plus showers and toilets. All this is in a building that was originally at the village at Maralinga.

Mt Ive features some interesting self-drive four-wheel drive tracks, which lead to great sights such as the Embankment, Cath’s Castles, lookouts and Peter’s Pillars.

Next day we set off on a self-drive track known as the Flight Path, so called as you have to cross the airstrip, to explore on Mt Ive Station.

The lookout, located up a long rocky track to the top of a hill, offers fine views overlooking the homestead and hilly terrain of the station.

Peter’s Pillars is an amazing display of rhyolite columns, stacked at various angles in piles on both sides of a valley. These are the remains of volcanic plugs from an eruption many millions of years ago. There is a car park nearby and a short walk leads into the valley where the columns are found.

Most of the track was straightforward, but there were some challenging moments when it was technically quite difficult and low range was useful.

Lake Gairdner

Lake Gairdner sits on the northern boundary of Mt Ive and can be accessed with permission from the station.

Lake Gairdner is the third largest salt lake in Australia. Its surface is very firm (unless there has been rain), with salt over 1.2 metres thick in some places. It is used annually for Speed Week and race events organised by the Dry Lake Racers Association, when hordes of competitors bring their purpose-built vehicles for the occasion.

Film producers also enjoy the lake as a location and many car commercials have been filmed here.

And no wonder. Lake Gairdner provides a stunning vista of pristine salt lake fringed by red rock and sand. From the parking area, the lake stretched to the horizon in a northerly direction, as it basked serenely in the late afternoon sunshine. It is a magic spot to enjoy the sunset.

Our day’s adventure was over, and it was time to head back to the camp ground for the night before the next day’s adventures in Gawler Ranges National Park.

Gawler Ranges National Park

The Gawler Ranges National Park is an area of ancient ranges, rocky gorges, seasonal waterfalls and natural wilderness. It was proclaimed as a national park in 2002. Here there is wildlife to see, including the yellow footed rock wallaby, as well as history and Aboriginal culture.

The Park is accessed 76 kilometres from Kimba and 50 kilometres from Wudinna. Both of these are found on the Eyre Highway, west of Port Augusta. The park might be smaller in size, but there is much to see and do there. There is something for those with 2-wheel drives as well as 4-wheel drives with several camping grounds suited for each as well as caravans.

We came to the park from Mt Ive Station, along good gravel roads. Once there we turned right and headed for Kolay Hut, where there is a campground and plenty of shade suitable for a lunch stop.

Not far from the hut is Kolay Mirica Falls, which were dry at this time, but the line of the falls was clearly visible across the surface of the rock. A climb to the top of the falls rewards with a stunning view across the valley. And above the falls, the rock formations have formed into pillars of stone, standing in neat rows lining the creek.

We headed to the northern part of the park and Pondanna Outstation. An old house here, in immaculate condition, is available as an accommodation venue. There is also much to see around the old station house, with farm equipment, water storages and sheds still remaining on the property. Information boards explain all for the visitor.

From Pondanna Outstation our road took us to Conical Hill and to a lookout with a far reaching view across the plains below.

We left Gawler Ranges National Park and headed out on the Yardea Road, aiming for the road to Kingoonya. On the south western corner of Lake Gairdner is a very pleasant campsite, set amongst some casuarinas and wattles. There are no facilities here, only an ideal spot to stay for a night.

See our DVD Long Road to the Alice for this adventure west of the Stuart Highway.

18/01/2019

Tasmania’s west coast – 4-wheel driving adventure

Anne Morton Australia, Tasmania 4wd adventure, 4wd travel, exploring, Tasmania's west coast 0

Tasmania’s west coast is a great place for a summer holiday. There is something here to please everyone, including walking trails, waterfalls, touring, history, taste experiences, fishing, bike riding and some great four-wheel driving.

There is a variety of terrain to four-wheel drive on, such as beaches, through rainforests, heathland and button grass plains.

We hopped on the ferry and joined a group for a tag-along tour of Tasmania’s west coast. They were a mixed group, mainly from New South Wales, well-known to each other and were ready for fun and adventure. And on this trip we had plenty of each.

Our west coast adventure began at Marawah from where we headed for the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area and some of the best beach driving available in Australia.

Arthur River to Sandy Cape on Tasmania’s west coast

But the best beach driving in Australia is also the most hazardous, so only experienced four-wheel drivers, travelling in well-equipped four-wheel drives, in company with a couple of other vehicles, should attempt this drive.

The beaches of the west coast of Tasmania are subject to the sometimes wild seas of the Southern Ocean with nothing between here and Africa. There can be a build-up of driftwood, foam to disguise hazards such as rocks, and reshaping of the sand to cause unexpected drop-offs across the beach.

There is also quicksand caused by the runoff into the sea from perch lakes higher up the beach and at the rivers as they enter into the sea. Walk these river mouths to check how firm the sand is, wait for the wave to recede and drive on over, one vehicle at a time is best.

With care and preparation there is much to enjoy on this spectacular coastline. For more information and an excellent video go to Tasmania’s Parks and Wildlife here.

We were lucky and found the beach to be dry and an amazing adventure. The only hazard we encountered was a low drop off of approximately 15 cm that was undetectable as we headed down the beach. Everything in the back of our truck bounced high, but otherwise it was a most enjoyable drive.

Balfour Track

From Sandy Cape we headed back towards Temma, then turned right onto the Balfour Track. This track is rated hard, due to the possibility of water covering a 70-metre canal-like stretch across the button grass plains. Under the water can be anything, including deep holes and rutted and slippery tracks.

As with using the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area, permission is required from Parks and Wildlife available from the online Parks Shop.

Montezuma Falls

Located not far from Zeehan, Montezuma Falls at 104 metres is one of Tasmania’s highest waterfalls. The track follows the historic route of the former North East Dundas Tramway. The tramway used to pass by the falls crossing the creek over a wooden trestle bridge.

The bridge is no more and neither is the tramway, but the remains of sleepers can be found in the track and in the fern-covered narrow cuttings through the rainforest of leatherwood, myrtle, sassafras and giant tree ferns.

The gauge of the tramway was only 2 feet which was quite narrow and chosen to suit the winding hillsides. Although flat, the track is slow to drive with care required through the narrow cuttings and windy nature of the track.

But the impressive Falls and swing bridge access, and the rainforest vegetation make this drive well worthwhile.

Saw Back Range Track to Adamsfield

The Saw Back Range track is accessed from the Gordon River Road through a locked gate. The key must be obtained from the Parks Tasmania office at Mt Field National Park.

People using this route must be experienced four-wheel drivers with high clearance vehicles. The track can be very tricky, especially when wet and there is a steep and slippery section to negotiate very carefully.

But again, this is a beautiful drive through changing vegetation that switches from rainforest to heath. The track is often fringed by ferns and magnificent beech trees found in the rainforest.

In 1925 Adamsfield was the site of mining activity for osmiridium, which had a value about seven times that of gold in those days. Today there is little left of this once booming town as fires and reclaiming bush have left their mark.

Our DVD Tasmania: the Devil’s Playground includes all these tracks and shows each adventure and the fun we had getting there.