4wd adventure

23/02/2022

Blinman Mine Underground Experience

Anne Morton Australia, South Australia 4wd adventure, 4x4 travel Australia, Flinders Ranges, South Australia

The Blinman Underground Experience is an innovative tour through the historic Blinman copper mine. Aided by the addition of an informative sound and light display, the tour takes the visitor back through time showing the daily lives of the miners and their families.

The tour explores the tunnels, the main shaft and the stopes. These were terrible working conditions for miners, where dust, near darkness, holes in tunnel floors and explosions in the rock walls were challenges. This was indeed one of the world’s most horrible jobs.

Blinman Mine open cut section — The mine open cut, viewed from above

History of the Blinman Mine

The mine first opened in 1862, after a shepherd, named Robert Blinman, discovered an outcrop of copper ore in 1859. The mine operated off and on until 1907, closing at various times due to financial difficulties, low copper prices and eventually the exhaustion of payable ore.

Smelting works were erected in 1863 to reduce the high cost of cartage to Port Augusta. The workings reached 91 metres deep in 1870, but water was found in the shaft. A steam engine was erected to pump the water and haul ore from the lower levels. Despite the improvements the mine closed in 1874.

The mine reopened when the railway line reached Parachilna in 1882, but this venture failed. There were several openings and closures during the following 25 years.

Blinman Mine was the largest producer and the longest operating copper mine in the Flinders Ranges. Over the period of its activity, the mine yielded 10,000 tonnes of copper from 200,000 tonnes of ore. The town’s population fluctuated during the periods of the mine’s operation, peaking at about 1500 people at one time.

The mine was profitable for some of the companies that worked it but was mostly an economic failure. One of the greatest problems was the economical transportation of the copper to the nearest port at Port Augusta.

Mine Self-Guided Trail

As well as the underground experience, there is a walking trail, and a brochure and interpretive signs explain the relics and ruins remaining on the hillside minesite. The trail is approximately 1 kilometre long.

The adit leads into the mine and is where the underground experience begins. The ore body outcropped over a length of about 60 metres on the hillside. As it has been completely excavated, large caverns have been left behind. You can get an idea of the size of the orebody from the diggings, through the fences built for safety purposes .

Remains of a buddle pit used to concentrate finely crushed copper metals — Buddle pit used to concentrate finely crushed copper

Other remains include a dam wall, mine shafts, windinghouse, crusherhouse and powerhouse sites, coarse tailings dump, slimes dump and slag heap. Miners used curious circular structures, called buddle pits, to concentrate finely crushed copper minerals. These devices were developed in Cornwall and brought to South Australia in the 1860s.

Blinman Township

The township of Blinman is also named after the shepherd who discovered the copper. Located scenically in the central Flinders Ranges, Blinman is the highest surveyed-town in South Australia. Today there is a permanent population of 22, plus the residents of the surrounding pastoral properties.

As well as the Underground Mine Experience, Blinman services include a General Store, Post Office Agency and the North Blinman Hotel which also offers accommodation and dining. Accommodation is also available in cottages and on surrounding pastoral properties.

The General Store also offers great coffee and tasty Aussie food and we tried Cornish pasties available from there. This was a real treat with the usual pastie contents in three-quarters of the pastry and apple tucked in one end. The traditional Cornish pastie makes for a very delicious meal.

John and I visited Blinman in 2009 when filming our video The Magic of the Flinders Ranges. Then the underground tour wasn’t available. So we were keen to head back there when we heard that the mine tour had opened.

The Heritage Blinman Mine Underground Experience was excellent, took longer than the advertised hour duration and was well worth the deviation we took to visit it. See more at www.heritageblinmanmine.com.au.

29/12/2021

Caves to Caves Adventure in New South Wales

Anne Morton New South Wales, Short trips 4wd adventure, exploring, New South Wales, weekend trips

Our Caves to Caves Adventure

During our 4-wheel drive caves to caves adventure, we explored the beautiful Blue Mountains of New South Wales. During the weekend, we visited Jenolan Caves, saw the Kanangra Walls and completed the adventure at Wombeyan Caves.

The Jenolan Caves is the longest, continually operating tourist attraction in New South Wales. These caves are also claimed to be the oldest discovered caves in the world. More than 300 caves pock the subterranean karst geology. Guides offer tours through some of these caves.

At the other end of this trek is Wombeyan Caves, an extensive series of limestone caves situated in a 417-hectare reserve. At Wombeyan you can experience self-guided explorations through the caves.

Between these two sets of caves there is the stunning and spectacular Kanangra Walls, a sandstone-dominated landform with different geology to the rest of the Blue Mountains.

But that’s not all, as this trek features mountain tracks, wild rivers and appealing campsites, although as it was winter when we toured, we were happy to stay at a motel in Oberon.

Jenolan Caves stalactite formation — Jenolan Caves

The Caves to Caves Adventure begins

Our small group left the Great Western Highway at Little Hartley just over the range from Sydney. The turn off is signposted Coxs River Road. This begins as bitumen, but soon turns to gravel as it heads down into the valley.

Soon we were travelling on a section of what is known as Six Foot Track. In 1885 the New South Wales government provided the funds to construct a six-foot wide bridle trail, wide enough to accommodate coach travel. This track established a route to Jenolan Caves from Katoomba to realise the tourist potential of the area.

In 1985 the Six Foot Track was opened for dedicated walkers to experience the 3-day, 45-kilometre trek from Katoomba to Jenolan Caves. Four-wheel drivers can drive on some of this route, while keeping a careful lookout for walkers.

Coxs River Reserve, on the Six Foot Track, is a popular camp ground for walkers, or for short walks along the river.

From Coxs River we continued along a ridge line for some time. Soon we were dropping down into valleys or climbing once more to heights with signs of recent snowfalls. Then we were on the bitumen and heading for Jenolan Caves.

The amazing entrance to the caves is through the Grand Arch. From here the first building seen is the impressive grand hotel, Caves House. There is much to see here, including Carlotta Arch, which is a large cave remnant that overlooks Blue Lake.

The caves are a network of ancient limestone tunnels, subterranean rivers and caverns. They are richly draped with formations of all kinds, that result from a variety of mineral deposits. We chose a tour of the Chifley Cave. This was the first cave in the world lit by electric light when it was opened in 1880.

Day 2 of our Blue Mountains Adventure

We started Day 2 with a visit to Kanangra Walls. The Kanangra Walls display the sheer grandeur of the wild and rugged Kanangra-Boyd National Park. It’s best to see the Walls from lookouts, which offer stunning vistas over Kanangra Gorge and Plateau.

Dingo Dell in Blue Mountains, NSW — Dingo Dell camping area, a pleasant place for a stop

From there we ventured down into the valley for a pleasant break for morning coffee at Dingo Dell. This is an area for camping, but it is more suitable for walkers than car-based campers.

After Dingo Dell we climbed up to the Oberon-Colong Stock Route and the Mt Werong picnic area for some lunch. While we were there some wallabies came to visit us. This one created a lot of interest, especially when we saw it was carrying a joey.

Once lunch was completed, we took the Range Fire Trail from the picnic area to reach the Wombeyan Caves, an area of extensive beautiful limestone caves.

Wallaby with Joey at Mt Werong picnic area, NSW

A highlight here is the self-guided experience of the Figtree Cave. This cave forms the underground route for Wombeyan Creek and has three different sections. The first part is inactive and features impressive stone formations. The second part follows a narrow section along the creek, while the third leads to a huge cavern.

Wombeyan Caves stalactite formation — Figtree Cave formation on a self-guided tour

And so ended our tour, which is suitable for a weekend adventure. There are several places to camp along the way, as well as more places to explore. For more information on this tour, refer to 4WD Treks Close to Sydney (page 68 for Six Foot Track and page 161 for Caves to Caves).

13/03/2021

Following Explorers Burke and Wills: a Journey Across Australia

Anne Morton Australia, Queensland 4wd adventure, 4wd travel, New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Victoria

Explorers Burke and Wills were well-known for their part in the exploration history of Australia. Their efforts to cross the country from south to north enabled the extension of the current knowledge of vast parts of the inland.

A sample of the journey following explorers Burke and Wills from our video
On the Track of Burke and Wills

Many travellers follow the routes of Australia’s intrepid explorers. The Burke and Wills route across the Australian continent provides an interesting, alternative journey. This is a short guide to their trek.

A short history of explorers Burke and Wills expedition

The Exploration Expedition

In 1860, Irishman, Robert O’Hara Burke, was appointed leader of an expedition to explore the area between Melbourne and the Gulf of Carpentaria. Both impulsive and impatient, Burke was a poor choice. He had no experience as a bushman or ability to plan an expedition.

Fortunately, the serious and reserved 26 year-old, William Wills, was chosen as surveyor and navigator. It was due to Wills that the expedition was nearly a success.

The Expedition Journey

The expedition progressed to the Gulf of Carpentaria in three stages. Nineteen men left Melbourne in August 1860 and worked their way to Menindee in New South Wales.

Rainfall was heavy in August 1860 Victoria. With an overabundance of supplies to transport, progress was slow through thick clay and soggy ground. Later the route was across sand dune country. Burke ditched some of the superfluous equipment, but he also left behind useful supplies such as medicines, fishing gear and lime juice used to prevent scurvy.

At Swan Hill, a tiny settlement on the Murray River, Burke discharged four men and took on four others. One of these was Charley Gray, a former sailor and ostler for Cobb and Co, who went to the Gulf with Burke, Wills and John King.

Eventually the expedition reached Menindee on the Darling River. Here Burke sacked his second in command, George Landells, due to their frequent disagreements over the treatment of the camels. William Wills now became deputy. Burke was impatient to be the first to cross the continent from south to north. He divided the party and left Menindee with seven men on 19^th October 1860.

The remaining men were to follow with fresh horses and supplies to Cooper Creek. But by the time they left Menindee in late January 1861, conditions were poor and three men died in the attempt.

Burke and Wills explore to the Gulf

Meanwhile Burke and Wills had reached the Cooper in December 1860. Here they built a depot near the 300-year-old coolabah tree that became known as the Dig Tree.

Burke soon set off for the Gulf with Wills, Gray and King. This was through the full summer heat of central Australia and the Top End wet season. Four men remained at Cooper Creek to wait for their return.

Burke and Wills’ journey to the Gulf of Carpentaria passed close to present day Birdsville, Boulia and Cloncurry.

Their final campsite was Camp 119 (CXIX). Leaving Gray and King at this campsite, Burke and Wills made a final effort to reach the sea. Unfortunately, they never reached the sea, but the water they tasted was salty. They returned to Camp 119 to begin the arduous trek back to the Dig Tree.

Gray died on the journey back, while Burke, Wills and King finally reached the Cooper in April. They discovered that the men left there had departed that day, only a few hours before.

After four months the men at the tree couldn’t wait any longer. Their supplies were running short and some were ill. On 21^st April 1861 they started their journey back to Menindee. Little did they know that Burke, Wills and King staggered into camp that very afternoon.

Without the energy to continue the three remained at Cooper Creek until Burke and Wills died in June. But King survived. Alfred Howitt’s search party found King in the care of the local aborigines. Howitt buried both Burke and Wills where they were found. Later their bodies were removed and buried in the Melbourne cemetery.

Following the Explorers Route today

Memorials to Explorers Burke and Wills in Melbourne

A statue of the explorers Burke and Wills stands on the corner of Swanston and Collins Streets.

In the Melbourne General Cemetery, a massive granite obelisk marks the grave of Burke and Wills. John King, survivor of the expedition, lies in another part of the cemetery.

In Royal Park an impressive memorial marks the spot where the expedition party began their journey north. There is a commemorative plaque here too, recording 150 years since Burke and Wills departed on their epic journey.

Memorial headstone for explorers Burke and Wills in the Melbourne Cemetery — Memorial headstone for Burke and Wills

Memorial for departure point for explorers Burke and Wills in Royal Park, Melbourne — Departure point memorial for Burke and Wills in Royal Park

Their first campsite is only four miles away near Queens Park on Mt Alexander Road. A small memorial in the median strip marks this spot.

Melbourne to Swan Hill

From Melbourne the route passes Romsey, Lancefield and the Campaspe River near Bendigo where they camped one night.

For today’s travellers, the Terrick-Terrick National Park offers camping and exploring. The lookout on top of a rocky hill offers views across the wide plains.

Swan Hill is a bustling, modern township located beside the Murray River. The Pioneer Settlement here showcases the lifestyle along the Murray from its 1850s’ beginnings. Visit cottages and shops of the time or enjoy rides and a paddle-steamer cruise.

Swan Hill to Menindee

From Swan Hill cross the Murray River into New South Wales. The route passes Balranald and heads for the Darling River.

Mungo National Park is located in this region. A World Heritage site, Mungo is rich in Aboriginal culture with a history dating back 42,000 years. On a guided tour visit the Walls of China, where erosion has sculpted sand and clay into fragile but imposing formations. A self-drive tour through the stunning landscape includes the history of more modern times when a sheep station was located here.

Pooncarie is a pleasant stopping spot on the Darling River, while Bindara Station offers camping and accommodation.

Kinchega, formerly a sheep station, became a national park in 1967. The park protects the Menindee lake system and highlights its rich pastoral and Aboriginal history. Visit the historic Kinchega Woolshed and Old Kinchega Homestead or take a discovery tour with the Barkindtji Aboriginal Elders. Camping and accommodation are available in the park.

Menindee is another pleasant small township on the banks of the Darling River. The original Maiden’s Hotel played a significant part in the Burke and Wills story.

Dost Mahomet’s grave is located a short distance out of town. Mahomet, an Indian-born cameleer, travelled to Cooper Creek with Burke and Wills, but remained at the Dig Tree during Burke’s dash to the coast. He returned to Menindee and worked in the bakery until his death in 1881.

The scientific explorers camped for three months beside Pamamaroo Creek, near Menindee. Signs indicate the spot where they waited to continue their journey.

The site of the camping spot of the Burke and Wills expedition at Pamamaroo Creek, near Menindee — The site of the campsite on Pamamaroo Creek near Menindee

Menindee to the ‘Dig Tree’

Mutawintji National Park is well worth a visit, featuring many walking trails through the rocky terrain. Visit the Mutawintji Gorge, or take a guided Aboriginal heritage tour and see one of the best collections of Aboriginal art featuring both hand stencils and rock peckings.

The route deviates now from that of Burke and Wills as there is no access through the private properties in this area.

From the Silver City Highway, today’s travellers can visit the historical township of Milparinka or head further west to Mt Poole. Charles Sturt spent six months here during his exploration to the centre of Australia.

Tibooburra is the last township in New South Wales. Well-known for its two hotels, Tibooburra was a gold mining town for a short time. But mining became unviable due to the shortage of water.

From Tibooburra, travel north into Queensland, to the corner border area with South Australia.

Noccundra is the only establishment in this area. Take some time here to enjoy the old hotel, built in 1882 before heading to the Dig Tree.

The Dig Tree is a 300-year old coolabah, that stands beside Cooper Creek on Nappa Merrie station.

There are three carvings on the tree although these are grown over now. One of the carvings marked the date of the explorers’ arrival at Cooper Creek and the date of departure – Dec 6-60 over Apr 21-61. Another carving marks the campsite number – B over LXV (65).

The third was the word ‘Dig’. This referred to the spot where the departing group had buried supplies for Burke and Wills in case they returned to the Cooper.

Today’s travellers will find pleasant camping near the Dig Tree as well as at the small township of Innamincka over the border in South Australia. There is good camping along Cooper Creek, but you need a desert parks pass for this.

Innamincka consists mainly of a hotel and a general store selling food and fuel. Other points of interest at Innamincka include the regional reserve information centre based in the historic Elizabeth Symon Nursing Home. The Burke and Wills burial sites are located beside Cooper Creek on either side of Innamincka.

Birdsville and beyond

A view of a convoy on an outback track — A view of a convoy on the Arrabury Road

Explorers Burke and Wills travelled along Cooper Creek, before turning north west, roughly in the same area as today’s Walkers Crossing Track across to the Birdsville Track.

Birdsville, perched on the edge of the Simpson Desert, has all facilities for travellers with general store, camp ground, bakery and, best of all, historic pub. Big Red, the largest sand dune of the Simpson Desert is a short drive from town.

From Birdsville, head north along the Eyre Development Road through Bedourie, the first small town. Then comes Boulia, home of the Min Min light and a fascinating exhibition at the Min Min Encounter. The Min Min light is often sighted but cannot be explained. There is also a fossil museum here.

Convoy crossing flooded Diamantina Road, following explorers Burke and Wills — Convoy crossing a flooding creek when following explorers Burke and Wills

There are several references to Burke and Wills through this region. Boulia is on the Burke River, Wills Creek is also present. North of Cloncurry, the Burke and Wills Roadhouse is located at the intersection of the Burke Development Road with the Wills Development Road.

The Burke and Wills Roadhouse in far north Queensland — Burke and Wills Roadhouse

The final campsite, Camp 119 is located off the Savannah Way. This is as far as you can go following the Burke and Wills route to the Gulf of Carpentaria. Just as the explorers had many difficulties reaching the sea, so today’s travellers have no access here.

Better to go via Normanton, home of the Purple Pub and giant crocodile, and Karumba for your view of the sea.

FAQ

What is the best time of year to go?

Anytime between April and October would be suitable for this trip. Remember that Victoria is cold over the winter months, but the Top End will be warm. Don’t be like Burke and visit the Top End during the wet season or central Australia from December to February.

What type of vehicle is best?

4WD is recommended for all outback touring. But this trip is easy and there should be no need for low-range.

What are the road conditions for this trip?

The roads across Victoria are mostly bitumen, with some unsealed. Avoid any Dry weather roads only, when they are wet.
In New South Wales main centre roads are sealed as are parts of the Silver City Highway. Otherwise most of the roads are unsealed and can be impassable after a lot of rain.
From South Australia and into Queensland road surfaces are mixed right to Normanton where roads are sealed to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Travellers should take due care on all road surfaces – sealed or unsealed. Many roads may be closed after heavy rain, so take note of all warning road signs.

The Burke and Wills route provides the opportunity to enjoy many different sights and adventures. To see how our adventure turned out see our video On the Track of Burke and Wills.

Dave Phoenix has written a book of his own journey walking the same route as Burke and Wills. Following Burke and Wills across Australia is available from Westprint Maps.

13/11/2020

Travelling the Binns Track: a Step-by-Step Guide

Anne Morton Australia, Northern Territory 4wd adventure, 4wd travel

The Binns Track is a collection of sealed and gravel roads and four-wheel drive tracks linking Mt Dare, on the edge of the Simpson Desert in South Australia, to Timber Creek in the Northern Territory’s top end. Altogether the Binns Track covers nearly 2,200 kilometres. It passes through a diversity of landscapes and environmental communities from the Simpson Desert sand dunes to the Savannah grasslands. In all, the Track offers adventure, history and stunning scenery for the four-wheel drive traveller.

Introduction

The Binns Track is named after Bill Binns, who worked for the Northern Territory Parks and Wildlife Service. Bill started as a ranger and rose to the level of Executive Director over his 32 years of service. His long held enthusiasm for this amazing four-wheel drive journey finally became a reality in 2008.

The starting point is at Mt Dare on the edge of the Simpson Desert. The final destination is Timber Creek in the tropical zone of the Northern Territory. South to north on the Binns Track is the most popular way to go, but odd travellers do journey from north to south. It’s best to travel in a small convoy for safety.

The Binns Track is meticulously signposted throughout its route with every turn or change of direction clearly marked. Although it is hard to get lost on this trek, some sections are very isolated. So be self-sufficient and carry plenty of food and fuel supplies and be careful on the tracks.

road signs along the Binns Track — The Binns Track is clearly marked

The Binns Track: a step-by-step guide

Mt Dare to Alice Springs

Mt Dare is actually in South Australia and part of Witjira National Park. The former homestead of a cattle station provides welcome services to all travellers especially those crossing the Simpson Desert. So top up your fuel tanks here before heading on the next part of your trip.

From Mt Dare the track soon crosses into Northern Territory and over the normally dry Finke River. The direct route to Old Andado is subject to flooding and track damage caused by heavy rain events. Therefore, it may be necessary to use the longer route through New Crown to reach Old Andado homestead.

View of Old Andado homestead on the Binns Track — Old Andado homestead after heavy rain

Molly Clark, a stalwart pastoralist, was owner of Old Andado homestead, a significant historical site. The site has been preserved the way that Molly left it when she was forced to move to Alice Springs. Molly also founded the National Pioneer Women’s Hall of Fame in Alice Springs in the 1990s.

There is a camping area here with toilets and showers available and an honesty box for camp fees.

From Old Andado the Binns Track heads for Alice Springs. This road is good gravel over well-formed tracks. The scenery changes dramatically, with first the parallel sand dunes of the Simpson Desert and later through hilly ranges.

Alice Springs is a busy regional centre and one of the largest townships of the Northern Territory. There is plenty to interest the traveller here with museums, art galleries and desert wildlife park. The township also offers the opportunity of stocking up with fuel and supplies for the more isolated adventure to come.

Alice Springs to Gemtree

The Binns Track follows the Ross Highway east from Alice Springs on bitumen. After 35 kilometres the track turns onto the Numery Road to reach the Ross River. Now there is more 4-wheel driving as the track follows the mostly dry river bed and crosses it several times.

Vehicles crossing Ross River on the Binns Track — Vehicles crossing Ross River

N’Dhala Gorge is located along this track. Visit the Gorge for its spectacular scenery and Aboriginal rock carvings.

It’s not far now along the river track to Ross River Resort. There is a range of accommodation options, including a campground and fuel supplies.

Trephina Gorge is located a short detour from the Binns Track from Ross River. This is another scenic spot located in the Eastern Macdonnell Ranges. Its features include two impressive gorges, walking tracks, stunning views and a camping area.

Trephina Gorge and river view — Trephina Gorge

Old building at Arltunga historic site, on the Binns Track — An old building at Arltunga Historic site

Now the Binns Track heads further east over a well-formed gravel road for the Arltunga Historic Reserve. This area preserves the site of an old gold mining area and township site. A 4-wheel drive track to the east leads to Ruby Gap and Glen Annie Gorge where rubies were discovered. This track is often closed due to track damage.

The Binns Track heads north west from Arltunga, along an easy 4-wheel drive track. After approximately 100 kilometres, this track reaches the Plenty Highway near Gemtree Caravan Park. There is a range of accommodation available and an outlet for fuel and supplies if you need to top up.

Gemtree offers guided tagalong gem-fossicking tours to nearby zircon and garnet fields. There is a gem-cutter on site who will check and polish any likely gems found on this tour. The Gem Room and Gallery displays gems, jewellery and Aboriginal art.

Gemtree to the Davenport Ranges

The Binns Track now passes through cattle station properties in this section of the trip. Carry plenty of water and spare fuel as the distance between fuel stops is quite long through this area.

The first part of this section follows the Plenty Highway eastwards. At first bitumen, this road soon becomes gravel and can be impassable when wet. The Binns Track leaves the highway after approximately 90 kilometres and turns northwards once more. Grass and shrublands are the main vegetation here. There are rivers to negotiate which may have some water in them.

The Boxhole Meteorite Crater on Dneiper Station makes an interesting detour. It is best to first get permission to enter the site from the homestead located nearby.

The Bundey River has a wide sandy bed but with very little water. Some of the track can be rough and narrow in this section, so be careful through here.

There is a short stint on the dry weather only Sandover Highway. Then the Binns Track once again turns in a northerly direction. This road is good gravel for approximately 120 kilometres until the track turns onto a rougher, rocky 4-wheel drive track.

Davenport Ranges National Park

A pretty waterhole and water crossing mark the beginning of the Iywelepenty/ Davenport Ranges National Park. This national park protects an important environmental zone of waterholes and rocky, scenic terrain.

Travellers will see Hatches Creek mining ruins where Wolframite was discovered in 1914. Wolfram was used in the hardening of steel. So there was strong demand for it during both world wars and the Korean war.

There are two ways of reaching Old Police Station Waterhole. The alternate Frew River Track consists of very rocky terrain across the range while offering scenic views along the way. But it is rugged and towing trailers is not recommended. The main track is longer, but easier.

A campsite at Old Police Station Waterhole along the Binns Track, Northern Territory — A campsite beside Old Police Station Waterhole

Old Police Station Waterhole is one of two very pretty waterholes designated as camping areas in the park. There is good camping beside the permanent and large waterhole here. Travellers can have a refreshing break from travelling. The other camping area on Whistleduck Creek is on the north side of the national park.

Davenport Ranges to Dunmarra

Back at the Stuart Highway, you can take a short deviation south to find the Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve. This Reserve features a remarkable collection of large rounded rocks and is a sacred site for the local Aboriginal people. There is a camping ground here too.

Devils Marbles, Northern Territory — Devils Marbles at sunset

The way north now is along the Stuart Highway, which closely follows the route of explorer, John McDouall Stuart. He was the explorer who successfully crossed Australia from Adelaide to Darwin in 1861.

Tenant Creek became a township after gold was discovered here in 1932. A telegraph repeater station was built nearby in 1870. This is part of the Overland Telegraph Line, which links Australia with the world. The repeater station has been restored and is well worth a visit.

Travellers can refresh all their supplies in Tennant Creek.

The Binns Track continues along the main Stuart Highway, approximately 300 kilometres. It passes through the townships of Renner Springs and Elliot on its way north to Ddunmarra.

Dunmarra is a roadhouse offering all of a traveller’s needs including camping and caravan facilities.

Dunmarra to Judbarra/Gregory National Park

From Dunmarra the Binns Track now follows the mostly gravel Buchanan Highway to Top Springs, approximately 180 kilometres from the Stuart Highway.

Top Springs is a roadhouse located at the junction of the Buchanan Highway with the Buntine Highway. Facilities at Top Springs include fuel, some food and camping area.

Victoria River Downs Station is another 102 kilometres further west along the Buchanan Highway. From there the Binns Track continues into Judbarra/Gregory National Park. Now the way offers some challenging river crossings and rough, rocky track. These tracks are slow going so it’s best not to be in a hurry through this section.

Low clearance vehicles and those towing trailers should continue on the Buchanan Highway. The road is still gravel through scenic Jasper Gorge, where a pretty creek passes through a range of hills.

Judbarra/Gregory National Park is named after explorer Augustus Gregory. Covering an area of about 13,000 square kilometres, the park features spectacular gorge and range scenery. There are several camping options, with the main one near the site of the old Bullita Homestead. With several drives and many features to explore, spend some time in the park to see as much as possible.

Timber Creek

Timber Creek on the Victoria Highway is a small township that marks the end of the Binns Track. There are a historic police station, river and escarpment lookouts, memorials and historic boab trees to explore near Timber Creek. A range of services and accommodation is available here too.

And so ends the Binns Track journey. For more information, see the excellent Binns Track: 4WD Adventure Guide available from Westprint Heritage Maps. This map guide book has detailed maps along every section of the track. It also includes heritage and touring information and interesting facts about many of the highlights of the journey.

And you can see most of this adventure in our video The Binns Track: Savannah to Simpson. Yes, we were one of the odd groups that travelled this trip from north to south.

If you complete your adventure at Mt Dare, then you might choose to go home across the Simpson Desert. You might find our Simpson Desert: 50 Years On video to be of help here. Or our Old Ghan Heritage Trail features the Oodnadatta Track.

From Timber Creek turn west to visit the Kimberley and our video Colours of the Kimberley might help there. Turn eastwards and you are travelling on the Savannah Way and we have you covered there too.

07/02/2019

West of the Stuart Highway, South Australia

Anne Morton Australia, South Australia 4wd adventure, 4wd travel, exploring, South Australia 0

When planning a trip into South Australia most off roaders think of the Flinders Ranges, Simpson Desert or the great tracks – the Oodnadatta, the Birdsville and the Strzelecki. But there is plenty of adventure to be found to the west of the Stuart Highway as well.

Beginning in Port Augusta our convoy group took the long road to Alice Springs, west of the Stuart Highway and we found diversity in terrain and landscape, from desert sand to coastal sand, salt lakes and flooded rivers, historical events and a different look at the wide brown land.

Iron Knob

First stop was at Iron Knob, approximately 70 kms along the Eyre Highway to the west of Port Augusta. Weaving our way through the township, we finally found the Tourist Centre and Museum, which is as far away from the highway as is possible.

Iron Knob, perched on the slopes of BHP’s iron ore mine of Iron Monarch, is situated prominently with fine views across the flat plain. In its heyday, which extended throughout the 20^th century, the population of Iron Knob was approximately 800. But the mine closed in the late 1990s and soon it became a ghost town.

The mine has been reopened by Arrium now, and while the town is not exactly buzzing, the residents feel they have a brighter future, buoyed by the mining industry, and tourism.

Inside the information centre, an interesting display features history of Iron Knob, equipment and techniques, and the iron ore and steel industry here. A video is shown in the theatrette about the history of Iron Knob and its relationship with the steel works at Whyalla. Iron Knob is well worth a visit. The caravan park has basic and clean facilities including a camp kitchen and gas BBQ, payment of a gold coin donation.

From Iron Knob the turnoff to Mt Ive Station is just across the highway. This road, a comfortable drive on well-maintained gravel winds through gently undulating terrain.

Edward John Eyre came this way during his 1839 exploration westwards from Port Lincoln. He reached approximately 50 kilometres west of where Ceduna is today, before being forced to turn back due to a lack of water. On the return trip he discovered and named the Gawler Ranges after the then Governor of South Australia.

Along this road two of Eyre’s campsites are marked with stone plaques. Both are on the right hand side of the road when heading in a westerly direction. The first marks the spot of camp 7 where Eyre camped on September 24, 1839 and the other marks campsite 6 used on September 23, 1839. There is room off the road to pull over for a closer look at both campsite plaques.

Mt Ive Station

Mt Ive Station turnoff is marked by an unexpected object. One can only wonder why a mini submarine was built here – but it certainly is eye catching – and you are unlikely to miss the turnoff.

Mt Ive has plenty of accommodation options with stone rooms, shearers quarters and camping and caravan sites. There is also a huge communal kitchen and dining and recreation room, plus showers and toilets. All this is in a building that was originally at the village at Maralinga.

Mt Ive features some interesting self-drive four-wheel drive tracks, which lead to great sights such as the Embankment, Cath’s Castles, lookouts and Peter’s Pillars.

Next day we set off on a self-drive track known as the Flight Path, so called as you have to cross the airstrip, to explore on Mt Ive Station.

The lookout, located up a long rocky track to the top of a hill, offers fine views overlooking the homestead and hilly terrain of the station.

Peter’s Pillars is an amazing display of rhyolite columns, stacked at various angles in piles on both sides of a valley. These are the remains of volcanic plugs from an eruption many millions of years ago. There is a car park nearby and a short walk leads into the valley where the columns are found.

Most of the track was straightforward, but there were some challenging moments when it was technically quite difficult and low range was useful.

Lake Gairdner

Lake Gairdner sits on the northern boundary of Mt Ive and can be accessed with permission from the station.

Lake Gairdner is the third largest salt lake in Australia. Its surface is very firm (unless there has been rain), with salt over 1.2 metres thick in some places. It is used annually for Speed Week and race events organised by the Dry Lake Racers Association, when hordes of competitors bring their purpose-built vehicles for the occasion.

Film producers also enjoy the lake as a location and many car commercials have been filmed here.

And no wonder. Lake Gairdner provides a stunning vista of pristine salt lake fringed by red rock and sand. From the parking area, the lake stretched to the horizon in a northerly direction, as it basked serenely in the late afternoon sunshine. It is a magic spot to enjoy the sunset.

Our day’s adventure was over, and it was time to head back to the camp ground for the night before the next day’s adventures in Gawler Ranges National Park.

Gawler Ranges National Park

The Gawler Ranges National Park is an area of ancient ranges, rocky gorges, seasonal waterfalls and natural wilderness. It was proclaimed as a national park in 2002. Here there is wildlife to see, including the yellow footed rock wallaby, as well as history and Aboriginal culture.

The Park is accessed 76 kilometres from Kimba and 50 kilometres from Wudinna. Both of these are found on the Eyre Highway, west of Port Augusta. The park might be smaller in size, but there is much to see and do there. There is something for those with 2-wheel drives as well as 4-wheel drives with several camping grounds suited for each as well as caravans.

We came to the park from Mt Ive Station, along good gravel roads. Once there we turned right and headed for Kolay Hut, where there is a campground and plenty of shade suitable for a lunch stop.

Not far from the hut is Kolay Mirica Falls, which were dry at this time, but the line of the falls was clearly visible across the surface of the rock. A climb to the top of the falls rewards with a stunning view across the valley. And above the falls, the rock formations have formed into pillars of stone, standing in neat rows lining the creek.

We headed to the northern part of the park and Pondanna Outstation. An old house here, in immaculate condition, is available as an accommodation venue. There is also much to see around the old station house, with farm equipment, water storages and sheds still remaining on the property. Information boards explain all for the visitor.

From Pondanna Outstation our road took us to Conical Hill and to a lookout with a far reaching view across the plains below.

We left Gawler Ranges National Park and headed out on the Yardea Road, aiming for the road to Kingoonya. On the south western corner of Lake Gairdner is a very pleasant campsite, set amongst some casuarinas and wattles. There are no facilities here, only an ideal spot to stay for a night.

See our DVD Long Road to the Alice for this adventure west of the Stuart Highway.

18/01/2019

Tasmania’s west coast – 4-wheel driving adventure

Anne Morton Australia, Tasmania 4wd adventure, 4wd travel, exploring, Tasmania's west coast 0

Tasmania’s west coast is a great place for a summer holiday. There is something here to please everyone, including walking trails, waterfalls, touring, history, taste experiences, fishing, bike riding and some great four-wheel driving.

There is a variety of terrain to four-wheel drive on, such as beaches, through rainforests, heathland and button grass plains.

We hopped on the ferry and joined a group for a tag-along tour of Tasmania’s west coast. They were a mixed group, mainly from New South Wales, well-known to each other and were ready for fun and adventure. And on this trip we had plenty of each.

Our west coast adventure began at Marawah from where we headed for the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area and some of the best beach driving available in Australia.

Arthur River to Sandy Cape on Tasmania’s west coast

But the best beach driving in Australia is also the most hazardous, so only experienced four-wheel drivers, travelling in well-equipped four-wheel drives, in company with a couple of other vehicles, should attempt this drive.

The beaches of the west coast of Tasmania are subject to the sometimes wild seas of the Southern Ocean with nothing between here and Africa. There can be a build-up of driftwood, foam to disguise hazards such as rocks, and reshaping of the sand to cause unexpected drop-offs across the beach.

There is also quicksand caused by the runoff into the sea from perch lakes higher up the beach and at the rivers as they enter into the sea. Walk these river mouths to check how firm the sand is, wait for the wave to recede and drive on over, one vehicle at a time is best.

With care and preparation there is much to enjoy on this spectacular coastline. For more information and an excellent video go to Tasmania’s Parks and Wildlife here.

We were lucky and found the beach to be dry and an amazing adventure. The only hazard we encountered was a low drop off of approximately 15 cm that was undetectable as we headed down the beach. Everything in the back of our truck bounced high, but otherwise it was a most enjoyable drive.

Balfour Track

From Sandy Cape we headed back towards Temma, then turned right onto the Balfour Track. This track is rated hard, due to the possibility of water covering a 70-metre canal-like stretch across the button grass plains. Under the water can be anything, including deep holes and rutted and slippery tracks.

As with using the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area, permission is required from Parks and Wildlife available from the online Parks Shop.

Montezuma Falls

Located not far from Zeehan, Montezuma Falls at 104 metres is one of Tasmania’s highest waterfalls. The track follows the historic route of the former North East Dundas Tramway. The tramway used to pass by the falls crossing the creek over a wooden trestle bridge.

The bridge is no more and neither is the tramway, but the remains of sleepers can be found in the track and in the fern-covered narrow cuttings through the rainforest of leatherwood, myrtle, sassafras and giant tree ferns.

The gauge of the tramway was only 2 feet which was quite narrow and chosen to suit the winding hillsides. Although flat, the track is slow to drive with care required through the narrow cuttings and windy nature of the track.

But the impressive Falls and swing bridge access, and the rainforest vegetation make this drive well worthwhile.

Saw Back Range Track to Adamsfield

The Saw Back Range track is accessed from the Gordon River Road through a locked gate. The key must be obtained from the Parks Tasmania office at Mt Field National Park.

People using this route must be experienced four-wheel drivers with high clearance vehicles. The track can be very tricky, especially when wet and there is a steep and slippery section to negotiate very carefully.

But again, this is a beautiful drive through changing vegetation that switches from rainforest to heath. The track is often fringed by ferns and magnificent beech trees found in the rainforest.

In 1925 Adamsfield was the site of mining activity for osmiridium, which had a value about seven times that of gold in those days. Today there is little left of this once booming town as fires and reclaiming bush have left their mark.

Our DVD Tasmania: the Devil’s Playground includes all these tracks and shows each adventure and the fun we had getting there.