How bad weather can improve your travel experience
John and I recently joined a tour, Maralinga and Beyond, which was organised by Vic Widman and Great Divide Tours. We decided to join the tour even though the itinerary included many places we had already visited and even filmed. We were looking forward to some highlights we hadn’t been to. Then we found how bad weather can improve your travel experience.
Some of the new experiences
On day 1 our morning stop was at Iron Knob – part mining town, mostly ghost town. The Tourist Centre and Museum offers expansive views towards the mountains lining Spencer Gulf. It displays many interesting exhibits of the mining and town history.
The group stopped at Mt Ive Station where we visited the volcanic plugs of Peter’s Pillars and Lake Gairdner. From there we travelled into the Gawler Ranges National Park for a day exploring the features. The Park features old huts, dry waterfalls and organ pipe rock formations. An historical display included a pastoral homestead, showcasing the way of life with farming machinery and buildings. We enjoyed the stunning scenery as seen from a lookout over the valley below.
The bad weather changes the itinerary
Googs Track was next. We were disappointed that the heavy overcast obscured the views of Mt Finke, so that good photos were ruled out. But the light rain did settle the sand on the dunes making travel easier.
The plan had been to camp at Googs Lake but the weather report was bad. Torrential rain and extreme winds were predicted across much of coastal and central Australia. Vic decided to press on to Ceduna for the cover offered by the Tourist Park.
In all we were based in Ceduna for 3 nights as rain and wind continued to affect the itinerary.
Davenport Creek is an easy drive from Ceduna. Vic’s plan had been to camp there and explore the sand dunes and beach. But the rain, wind and very high tide made access difficult and camping there would have been quite uncomfortable.
But the weather wasn’t all bad. The sun was shining when we did access the dunes at Davenport Creek. But the strong wind was blowing the sand across the dune tops and driving the waves onshore. As we took in the beautiful scene before us, we felt like we needed to have something to hold onto.
Next day as rain and wind alternated with sun and wind, the group headed for Streaky Bay and nearby Cape Bauer. The strong wind drove the surging sea onto the rocks, for spectacular displays at the Whistling Rocks and Blowholes.
It was time to move on for more beaches with a stop at Port Sinclair and surfing mecca, Cactus Beach. Fowlers Bay was next, for more giant sand dunes and beach driving. At last the wind had dropped and the sand and sea were calm.
Fowlers Bay is proud of its history with information boards displayed throughout the small village.
The bad weather brings surprises
After experiencing the stunning wave action at Whistling Rocks, we had discovered quickly how bad weather can improve your travel experience. But there were even more surprises in store.
There must have been good rains across the central deserts prior to the heap of rain that came with the storm that hit central Australia.
We travelled through the Great Victoria Desert and were surprised at how green the vegetation was, including the spinifex (Triodia). New growth was bright green and spread across the landscape. This included at Totems I and II of the British Atomic Weapons Tests of October 1953.
But the biggest surprise was at Palm Valley and along the Finke River Track. Before the storm, visitors were warned to leave before and the Finke Gorge National Park closed. The creeks and rivers were full but fortunately for us the floods were subsiding and both were open once more.
John and I had explored the Finke River Track many years before. The only water encountered was the permanent waterhole at Boggy Hole. This time, both Palm Creek and Finke River were carrying water. There were many photo opportunities and scenic delights at each river crossing – all of which provided no problems except one.
As one of the first groups to attempt the Finke River Track after the storm, Vic was uncertain whether we might be able to get through. And then we found one very deep hole. Vic waded in to test the depth, but quickly gave it away when the water lapped at the bottom of his shorts.
Gloom descended on the group until Ian, Vic’s assistant, found an alternative track. It was overgrown, over rocks and rough, but it was a safe detour. We all scrambled through and continued our marvellous adventure.
As it turned out, Vic’s natural caution had prevented our vehicles from drowning at the deep hole in the river. Further down the track we came across a stranded vehicle abandoned after going through that hole.
We completed the Finke River Track, having enjoyed the adventure. And we had experienced the beauty of the usually dry Finke River with water in it.
Advantages from the bad weather
- Saved from camping in very high tides at Davenport Creek
- Lush vegetation in the Great Victoria Desert
- Water in the often dry Finke River.
Our trip finished at Alice Springs, a great adventure. We experienced wonderful diversity and scenery with some bad weather that improved our travel experience.
Find the whole story of this trip in our video Long Road to the Alice: Port Augusta to Alice Springs. Check it out and order your copy now.